Leaving the laminate flooring in the room: It is a good idea to leave the laminate parquet packets for 48 hours in the room where the flooring will be installed, before we start installing them. This will ensure that the parquets get adjusted according to the humidity of the room to prevent further dilation or swelling after installation.

Conducting a ground survey: We should check with a straightedge if the floor is straight, or if it has any bumps. If there is a gap larger than 3 mm. between the floor and the straightedge, we should fill these gaps using filling material, and make the floor smooth.

Installing the underlayment: In order to begin installation, let’s lay a piece of nylon of suitable size on the floor before, and then roll the underlayment on top of the nylon to protect the laminate flooring against the humidity coming from underneath. This underlayment will help the gaps smaller than 3 mm (minimal floor defects) to be filled and the flooring to be fixed on the floor properly.

Putting down the first plank: We can place spacers along all the walls of the room where laminate flooring will be installed, so that some space is left between the wall and the wooden flooring, to allow any future expansion that might result from humidity. The spacers should distance the plank by 1.5 cm from the wall. Two spacers are enough for one plank. After the spacers are placed, we can put down the first plank, the groove side facing the wall.

Measuring the projection of the wall: If there is a slope on the wall, we should place the plank so that there is no space left between the wall and the plank. Leaning on the spacer, a line should be drawn until the end of the plank to outline the slope of the wall (projection) on the plank. Then we can cut the area drawn with a saber saw to fit the slope of the wall.

The end of the first row and adding planks: We can slide the plank next to the first row in a way that the tongue and groove sides face each other. It is essential to place a small piece of plank (approximately 10 cm.), beside where the heads of the two planks intersect, in order to prevent the pieces from sliding downwards before joining.

Joining planks: After having placed the heads of the first and second planks together, we can snap the second plank to the first and join the planks at the heads, by tapping the edge using a block and a hammer.

Measuring the last plank of the first row: When it comes to the last plank of the first row, we should measure the length of the plank to be placed between the wall and the last plank. To do this, we can place a full plank next to the first row, by putting the tongue side facing the wall, leaving a 4-mm gap between the first row and the plank. We can then draw on the plank with the help of a set square, in order to cut the piece to fill the gap between the wall and the last plank.

Cutting the measured plank: After taking the appropriate measurements, we can now cut the measured plank with the help of a saber saw (Using a thick-end saw is not recommended).

Placing the cut plank: After placing the end plank that we cut into the measured gap, we should place the indented side of the pull bar at the bottom of the wall. Then, we can hit the toothed side of the plank towards the opposite side of the wall, in order to join the planks together.

Spreading adhesive on the first plank: After having completed the first row, we are ready to spread a thin layer of adhesive where the first plank will meet the second plank. The applied adhesive can prevent water from making its way into the deeper parts of the flooring in case water is poured or the parquet is cleaned with a wet cloth.

Laying the second plank: We can stick the second plank to the first plank holding with both hands, and repeat the same process for installing rest of the planks, until your room is completely covered!